A South American Food Journal, Part 1: Cartagena


     For the last three years I´ve been scraping tips into a pile large enough to finance  a relatively thorough exploration of the lower half of The Americas.  For the purpose of this article, I'm primarily intersted in its widely varying cuisine, both on the street and indoors away from the mosquitos. And so here I am, ordering Salchipapa from a cart on a corner of Plaza de Trinidad in Cartagena, Colombia.

     Cartagena de las Indias is a steambath dream, an absurdly romantic Spanish Colonial reverie made flesh.  The French Quarter in New Orleans shares said architectural style with Cartagena, but the latter far outpaces the former in beauty, style and proportion.
     The Centro Historico is undeniably jaw-dropping, but the Getsemani district is where the thrill is.  At risk of belaboring the comparison with New Orleans, Getsemani is to the Centro Historico what Frenchman Street is to The French Quarter: a real neighborhood full of...



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