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A South American Food Journal Part 9, Guts and Glory in Salta, Argentina

The Argentinian food scene, which I had found fairly monotonous heretofore, is improved markedly the closer your proximity to Bolivia and Peru. The most remarkable city of that region is Salta, a frenetic, dirty pearl dropped into the psychedelic northwestern desert. The eyes are more native brown than European hazel and blue, the buildings more graceful (owing to the influence of the Spanish), and the food more interesting and flavorful. Offal (otherwise known as guts) can usually be found at a reputable meat palace in Salta. Not that there's anything wrong with a quotidian cut of top sirloin or rib eye; but when you've packed your colon to the brim with these old workhorses day in and day out, I for one start to crave different flavors and textures; offal (my favorites of which are tongue, heart and liver) provides an ambrosial detour down a side lane off the main highway of meat.

In the heart of the old town...


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