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A South American Food Journal, Part 11, Buenos Aires is Red Meat + Red Wine in Large Plastic Bottles

Buenos Aires, by most accounts, is a city. Those accounts also attach various adjectives to it such as world-class, cosmopolitan, Argentinian. One of the many criteria that I petulantly demand a city check off its scan-tron test sheet is the presence of a set of distinct neighborhoods. A large urban area of any stature should be made up of many little cities worthy of exploration in and of themselves. Buenos Aires is a buzzing honey comb of hoods. And, like any great city, the B.A. is prodigious in its offerings. It does cemetery for rich people. It does Old World romance. It does frantic businessman. It does meat. It does Spanish spoken with a cadence best evoked by imagining Don Corleone asking, "Donde esta la biblioteca?". Basically, everyone talks like they're gargling volcanic Sicilian soil.

Back to the meat, and my subject...


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