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A South American Food Journal Part 4, Beef Heart of Darkness


As the latter part of the above title flat-footedly implies, this weeks article has me journeying into savage, humid environs redolent of the morally queasy atmosphere of Joseph Conrad's most famous novel. Instead of the Belgian Congo, however, I find myself in Peru's Amazon Basin. I have to come clean, though. My point of penetration is quite tame by Amazon standards: the town of La Merced, which is only eight hours ENE of Lima, Peru's noxious, hideously sprawling capital. For this tremulous and soft denizen of the temperate and dry S.F. Bay Area the town of La Merced serves as a species of airlock, transitioning me seamlessly from the dry comforts of the coastal metropolis from whence I came to (one hopes) a state of harmony with the nameless, unspeakable depths of moist depravity that might await deeper in directions east and north.

Referring again to the title of this article: the organ meat referenced therein...

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