What is it about the Shanghai soup dumpling that impels the restauranteur to affix the name "King" or "Kingdom" somewhere in the title of his establishment dispensing of said delicacy? There IS a certain regal bearing to the soup dumpling, similar, you might imagi...

         The American Consulate celebrated its parent country’s independence from the U.K. inside the massive convention hall of a technical school on the northwest outskirts of Guadalajara, Friday, June 30.  

         Tecnologia Monterrey...

     The Richmond. Utter that small collection of phonemes three times in a row a la Beetlejuice and you might suddenly find yourself clad in a thick, grey knit sweater, gazing thoughtfully over the thick foaming head of a pint of stout from a plush barstool at flocks...

         The stylistic breadth in evidence at last Sunday’s Fiesta de la Musica, an annual multi-stage affair in Guadalajara, seemed to warrant optimism regarding the state of the city’s music scene, specifically as it concerns its eclecticism and heterogeneity.  That...

         Astute observers of urban milieus, be they dilettantes or professional urbanists, can’t have failed to noticed the proliferation in the past few years of a specific trope which could be described as a haute bourgeois mutation of the classic suburban strip mall...

     For those interested in the consumption of fine entrails, we present to you here within a weekly collection of macabre signposts pointing towards zones of high offal-saturation scattered throughout our little slice of peninsular heaven.

     They lay...

May 19, 2017

       

         According to two dispassionate, bored teenagers manning a t-shirt stall, the tiangius cultural next to Parque Agua Azul has been going down every Saturday for about 30 years.  That’s a lot of matchbox cars and spiked dog collars....

May 19, 2017

         Base criminality? Poetic justice? Whichever way you might lean, it’s safe to assume that the mitered grandees of the Archdiocese of Guadalajara are none too pleased by a recent spate of stealth thefts by brazen, (one assumes) less-than-faithful, parishioners....

May 17, 2017

          

         At first it seemed like butterflies might end up outnumbering human spectators at this past Sunday’s concert celebrating International Jazz Day. 

But it was only 2 p.m. The event, organized by the city...

January 10, 2017

     Large, central markets situated in cities with lax or non-existent health codes always make a strong impression upon the senses of smell and sight, and, if you're  somewhat brave, taste.  Peru boasts many markets and most I've frequented are loose affairs; no one...

January 10, 2017

     As the latter part of the above title flat-footedly implies, this weeks article has me journeying into savage, humid environs redolent of the morally queasy atmosphere of Joseph Conrad's most famous novel.  Instead of the Belgian Congo, however, I find myself in P...

January 9, 2017

     Iquitos, in case you haven't heard of it, is the largest city in the Peruvian Amazon.  As such, it absorbs anything into its bloodstream which that vast region can produce and be exchanged for hard currency.

     Visceral metaphors like those utilize...

January 9, 2017

     There isn't a neighborhood of any city in our union that is completely static, no urban zone where the prevailing skin tone will forever be reminiscent of elephant tusk, obsidian, or mole poblano, or where every household will be able to afford the exact same tier...

January 9, 2017

     If you like eating raw fish below street level, two options come to mind.  The first is Sushi Time, a tiny shoe box crammed into the corner of a small subterranean plaza in The Castro.  If that sounds like a recipe for a claustrophobia-related panic attack try the...

January 9, 2017

     The Argentinian food scene, which I had found fairly monotonous heretofore, is improved markedly the closer your proximity to Bolivia and Peru.  The most remarkable city of that region is Salta, a frenetic, dirty pearl dropped into the psychedelic northwestern des...

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